It was not long ago that a large portion of our surfable waves here in paradise were only reserved for the body surfers. The invention of a leash opened the flood gates to surfers invading our spots. So on the recent swell we fought back. No this was not rocky point, but close. Try secret spot on maui.
Anyways, its quite fun to ride on your belly at spots that typically are crowded with surfers. If anything there is some satisfaction to be gained by sitting outside the surfers, dropping in deeper and hooting the UGW to get the fuck out of the way
@40TwEnTy
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